36-Hour Transit: Lima, Peru

The cliffs of Miraflores are lit up at night in Lima.

By Susan Turnbull
Susan is a nurse and a member of the Oceania TCC Chapter living in Brisbane, Australia.

Lima is a destination in its own right, and this fast-paced itinerary delivers a rich taste of Lima’s history, culture, and world-renowned food scene.

Most international flights arrive between midnight and 6 a.m., giving you the advantage of a full first day. Freshen up at your hotel in Miraflores — the Lima Marriott Hotel overlooking the Pacific Ocean is recommended. However, there are excellent options for all budgets.

Start your morning in Lima’s UNESCO historic center with a walking tour — GuruWalk offers free tours, starting at 9:15 a.m. or 10 a.m. Afterwards, visit the catacombs beneath the Convent of San Francisco. Locals recommend exploring the historic center on weekdays, when it’s considered safer.

Next, take an Uber to the Larco Museum,
home to the world’s largest collection of Moche artifacts and other pre-Columbian treasures. Don’t miss the famous erotic gallery, offering a fascinating insight into ancient Peruvian sexuality. The on-site restaurant offers an excellent lunch.

Visit the nearby Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan pyramid nestled within the city. Take a quick guided tour, then enjoy a drink. The restaurant and bar, overlooking the ruins, had excellent Pisco sours.

Afterwards, it’s a short walk to the local artisan markets. The quality of wool products and handicrafts in Peru is exceptional, making for great gifts.

If time allows, continue to the bohemian seaside district of Barranco. Walking tours begin around 4 p.m., explore the art galleries, then find a spot overlooking the beach and Pacific Ocean for sunset. However, our favorite place to watch the sunset is from the terrace of Trattoria Mambrino at Larco Mar in Miraflores.

For dinner, aim high — Maido is currently ranked the world’s best restaurant. Other top 50 restaurants include Kjolle, Mérito, and Mayta. Bookings are essential.

There are many more options to choose from — from casual cevicherías such as Ceviche House opposite the Secret Garden Hostal, La Lucha Sanguchería Criolla, an iconic sandwich shop or hearty meals in busy family-style restaurants such as Siete Sopa or Restaurant El Pacífico. Mid-range La Mar Cevichería Peruana is popular with well-heeled locals. For those wanting a nightcap, Sastrería Martínez Bar is a top-rated speakeasy hidden behind a tailor shop.

The next morning, stretch your legs along the Malecón de Miraflores. Stop by the ChocoMuseo to stock up on Peruvian chocolate, then grab a coffee at Puku Puku Café to kick-start your day before continuing your journey deeper into Peru.

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